I cannot overstate the importance of keeping ALL of you plants in pots. Unless you have a truly natural pond or never plan on doing maintenance... keep those guys in a pot.
I just spent 10 hours cleaning out a pond and didn't finish. This pond was probably 15 feet in diameter and roughly round. 2 hours pulling water iris, 2 hours pulling cattail, and the rest of the time trying to clean and pull water lilies from the rock bottom of the ENTIRE pond. Oh, and I had two other guys with me. 10 hours!
I feel for the owner, he didn't want rock in the bottom and didn't like the idea of planting the water plants directly into the pond. Now it's going to cost him hundreds of dollars to get this all cleaned up. This would have been a two hour clean up without these misinformed decisions. I say misinformed because he brought up these concerns and the original installer said to not worry about it.
Don't worry about massive maintenance bills and the possibility of water iris and cattails growing through your liner? Really?
Sounds like someone that has never done a days maintenance in his life.
No rock and all plants in pots for a standard water garden unless you want to pay me hundreds of dollars to save you from leaks and a pond that is completely out of control. Your choice.
Friday, April 2, 2010
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Rain Chains
I got to lead another class at Lauritzen Gardens this weekend and really enjoyed the experience. I've been involved with plenty in the past but this was probably the most interactive group I've ever had. The class was about small water features, such as Pondless, Disappearing Fountains, Rain Chains, and container water features. Thank you to those that attended.
Rain Chains have probably had the most recent interest between the class and the Home & Garden Show in Omaha last weekend. (Hence no post last week) They are really grabbing a lot of attention recently and I was wanting to address them in this post.
Rain Chains are ancient (a few hundred years old at least) Japanese down spouts. These are very beautiful downspouts that are links alone or with baskets/cups in between the links. Commonly made of copper, but not mandatory. If you're a regular HGTV or other home show watcher you've probably at least seen them once before.
The main thing I wanted to touch on with these items is that they are not fully contained down spouts. Depending on how your landscape works they are an excellent to "a little work necessary" accessory to you house/landscape. Since they are not completely enclosed there are some considerations to take into account.
They will splash and you will need to consider some type of diversion for the water. The point of downspouts is to get the water away from the house, so with an open design they don't really accomplish the main purpose. This isn't necessarily a problem. If you already, or are considering, rain water capturing this isn't a major issue. A large barrel can catch a large amount, at least on a one story setup. If you do not have a rain barrel, I'd consider doing a rain garden or bog in the immediate area. A little liner and you can create a moist area for capturing and filtering the water from the roof. Also if you are more concerned about diversion, you can still slope the area into a drain tile and direct it away from the foundation.
The other option is using one as a fountain. This does take some thought also, and will need a wide basin or lined area so you don't have to be refilling constantly. I'll be working on setting one up in the courtyard when it warms up so I hope to have pictures to better describe the process soon.
I really like the possibilities with the rainchains and am going to be working with other ways to utilize them. I will also be looking into what type of alteration it would need to make pottery into a functional rain barrel. Hopefully not much, but I want to research before I start giving out ideas.
(Pictures from Rainchains.com)
Rain Chains have probably had the most recent interest between the class and the Home & Garden Show in Omaha last weekend. (Hence no post last week) They are really grabbing a lot of attention recently and I was wanting to address them in this post.
Rain Chains are ancient (a few hundred years old at least) Japanese down spouts. These are very beautiful downspouts that are links alone or with baskets/cups in between the links. Commonly made of copper, but not mandatory. If you're a regular HGTV or other home show watcher you've probably at least seen them once before.
The main thing I wanted to touch on with these items is that they are not fully contained down spouts. Depending on how your landscape works they are an excellent to "a little work necessary" accessory to you house/landscape. Since they are not completely enclosed there are some considerations to take into account.
They will splash and you will need to consider some type of diversion for the water. The point of downspouts is to get the water away from the house, so with an open design they don't really accomplish the main purpose. This isn't necessarily a problem. If you already, or are considering, rain water capturing this isn't a major issue. A large barrel can catch a large amount, at least on a one story setup. If you do not have a rain barrel, I'd consider doing a rain garden or bog in the immediate area. A little liner and you can create a moist area for capturing and filtering the water from the roof. Also if you are more concerned about diversion, you can still slope the area into a drain tile and direct it away from the foundation.
The other option is using one as a fountain. This does take some thought also, and will need a wide basin or lined area so you don't have to be refilling constantly. I'll be working on setting one up in the courtyard when it warms up so I hope to have pictures to better describe the process soon.
I really like the possibilities with the rainchains and am going to be working with other ways to utilize them. I will also be looking into what type of alteration it would need to make pottery into a functional rain barrel. Hopefully not much, but I want to research before I start giving out ideas.
(Pictures from Rainchains.com)
Monday, February 15, 2010
Bubbling Rocks
I was looking at my analytics page for my website and saw that 'bubbling rocks' is the number one search topic for people that click on my page. I thought these had waned in popularity, but apparently not. So, lets discuss the options.
First there are the natural boulders that can be drilled and turned into a bubbling rock or Moses rock. They are often the most eye catching, but often take heavy equipment and some knowledge to create. I enjoy them the most, but they are a bit of an undertaking. A lot of rock yards will have the equipment to drill any piece you would like. Around Omaha the going rate is about $75 per foot to get them drilled.
Basalt columns are a great option also. They are often more formal, and quite heavy, but they can add a great touch to a formal garden. Also possible indoors, but a basin is necessary or some extensive handy work. Basalt is very dense, and since rock is sold by the pound, these features can add up rather quickly.
Artifical bubbling rocks are another option. In the past I have never carried this type of fountain because, well, they looked artificial. Fortunately there are a handful of companies out there that make realistic rocks, but they can be pricey. The main advantage for this type of feature is that they are at least relatively mobile. Even a large piece can often be moved with a dolly or some type of cart.
Like disappearing fountains and pondless featuers, bubbling rocks can be fit into just about any landscape and are only limited by your imagination. One big tip I have about these features are to build the basin as big as possible so you aren't refilling constantly. There will be splash! Often times I will create a sloped region outside of the basin that will funnel the splash back into the container. It doesn't catch all of it, but it does limit the water loss. A good rule of thumb is to make the basin 1.5 times wider than the feature is tall.
First there are the natural boulders that can be drilled and turned into a bubbling rock or Moses rock. They are often the most eye catching, but often take heavy equipment and some knowledge to create. I enjoy them the most, but they are a bit of an undertaking. A lot of rock yards will have the equipment to drill any piece you would like. Around Omaha the going rate is about $75 per foot to get them drilled.
Basalt columns are a great option also. They are often more formal, and quite heavy, but they can add a great touch to a formal garden. Also possible indoors, but a basin is necessary or some extensive handy work. Basalt is very dense, and since rock is sold by the pound, these features can add up rather quickly.
Artifical bubbling rocks are another option. In the past I have never carried this type of fountain because, well, they looked artificial. Fortunately there are a handful of companies out there that make realistic rocks, but they can be pricey. The main advantage for this type of feature is that they are at least relatively mobile. Even a large piece can often be moved with a dolly or some type of cart.
Like disappearing fountains and pondless featuers, bubbling rocks can be fit into just about any landscape and are only limited by your imagination. One big tip I have about these features are to build the basin as big as possible so you aren't refilling constantly. There will be splash! Often times I will create a sloped region outside of the basin that will funnel the splash back into the container. It doesn't catch all of it, but it does limit the water loss. A good rule of thumb is to make the basin 1.5 times wider than the feature is tall.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Spring is coming... I keep telling myself.
I think a lot of people have been struggling with the constant gray and extra snow of this winter. I know I have. I think this year everyone is going to try and get out there as soon as possible, and sometimes to their own detriment.
With that in mind I have a few things to keep in mind when your pond is coming out of it's winter slumber.
1. Don't get ahead of yourself and buy hyacinth and other tropical and floating plants too quickly. Even when it is relatively warm, they think it is freezing. Those dips in temperature during the night can wipe them out in no time.
2. Don't feed those fish too soon. Even if they are active and begging for food, make sure that water is consistently above 50 degrees. If you get a late cold snap and they have been eating, they can get some digestive issues and even die.
3. You can place those hardy lilies and other low plants on pots to give them a bit of a kick start, just don't expect anything out of the tropical lilies or lotus until much later. Even though lotus are hardy, they behave more like a tropical early in the season.
4. If you have anyone do your maintenance for you, now would be a good time to get that lined up, or at least make sure they know you want to be on their list. When that first warm streak is here, your pond guy is already booked.
With that in mind I have a few things to keep in mind when your pond is coming out of it's winter slumber.
1. Don't get ahead of yourself and buy hyacinth and other tropical and floating plants too quickly. Even when it is relatively warm, they think it is freezing. Those dips in temperature during the night can wipe them out in no time.
2. Don't feed those fish too soon. Even if they are active and begging for food, make sure that water is consistently above 50 degrees. If you get a late cold snap and they have been eating, they can get some digestive issues and even die.
3. You can place those hardy lilies and other low plants on pots to give them a bit of a kick start, just don't expect anything out of the tropical lilies or lotus until much later. Even though lotus are hardy, they behave more like a tropical early in the season.
4. If you have anyone do your maintenance for you, now would be a good time to get that lined up, or at least make sure they know you want to be on their list. When that first warm streak is here, your pond guy is already booked.
Monday, February 1, 2010
"How To" Programs
I feel like I need to give fair warning to all of you who watch the 48 hour miracle makeover shows on TV. I don't know enough about home renovation, or certain types of 'hardscaping' to make a blanket statement on all makeover shows... but I can say there are very few I have seen that put a water feature in the landscape that I would recommend.
I realize that a lot of these shows focus on the drama of the makeover and that makes them more interesting to the casual viewer. But if you are looking for quality info on how to install a water feature on your own, BEWARE! Most of these projects would be leaking in a matter of days or weeks, and I wouldn't give a 6 month guarantee on almost any of them.
Editing and time restraints take out a lot of specific steps that are necessary to know about. I strongly recommend talking to someone that is a specialist before tackling your own water feature project. There are a handful of books I think could take you step by step through the construction, but I am yet to see a tv program come even remotely close to a quality description.
Watch for ideas and questions, but please do not base your entire project on a 10 minute clip.
I realize that a lot of these shows focus on the drama of the makeover and that makes them more interesting to the casual viewer. But if you are looking for quality info on how to install a water feature on your own, BEWARE! Most of these projects would be leaking in a matter of days or weeks, and I wouldn't give a 6 month guarantee on almost any of them.
Editing and time restraints take out a lot of specific steps that are necessary to know about. I strongly recommend talking to someone that is a specialist before tackling your own water feature project. There are a handful of books I think could take you step by step through the construction, but I am yet to see a tv program come even remotely close to a quality description.
Watch for ideas and questions, but please do not base your entire project on a 10 minute clip.
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Pre-Season Schedule
Spring is coming... no really. I'm already getting into the swing of seminars and home shows now that the new year is here. Already been to Atlanta for the Market, and found quite a bit of new items for the store.
For any of you who are interested we will be doing the Home & Garden Expo at the QWest Center February, 18 - 21.
Seminars and Workshops:
Lauritzen Garden Class - Small Water Features - February 27th
Pott County Master Gardeners Workshops - March 27th
Atlantic Garden Seminar - March 27th
We will also be heading to a few other places such as Lennox, possibly Bedford and Corning, as well as quite a few garden clubs and other organizations.
For any of you who are interested we will be doing the Home & Garden Expo at the QWest Center February, 18 - 21.
Seminars and Workshops:
Lauritzen Garden Class - Small Water Features - February 27th
Pott County Master Gardeners Workshops - March 27th
Atlantic Garden Seminar - March 27th
We will also be heading to a few other places such as Lennox, possibly Bedford and Corning, as well as quite a few garden clubs and other organizations.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Winter and Oxygenization
With the season quickly drawing to a close, many of us will be considering what to do with our pond for the winter. There are plenty of options in winterizing your water garden.
One is to run it all year long. Depending on your climate this is the most desirable, but not always the most practical. If it is too cold in your region to avoid ice issues, and IF you have the correct style of fall or stream, you can often get away with running it as long as you keep the skimmer opening open at all times. This is a bit of a risk for most and you can't leave town without a pond-sitter, but the ice sculptures that form are quite amazing in their own right.
Second is pulling the pump and winterizing your pond. Unless you have a very large feature you will need to keep oxygen available to the fish. This is done most commonly through a tank heater or bubbler. Each has their pros and cons, and many variations of each. The standard tank heater is easiest, but most are relatively costly to run due to their high Wattage needs. Their are lower wattage heaters, look around and see what options there are, we have had issues with longevity with some of the smaller wattage ones so be careful.
Bubblers are the other half of the second option. They are good to keep water moving and the ice open a large amount of the winter. It is not necessary in most cases to keep the ice open at all times, but as often as possible. In zone 4-5 we can use a small danner mag drive pump for 85 - 90% of the winter. Breathers are excellent, but hard to come by, if available they are good options.
The third option is to forget about keeping the ice open and just getting an air pump/stone that will get oxygen to your fish no matter what the surface is like. We've recently gotten one brand in stock to try. I haven't had a chance to test it so I'm not willing to give them any props yet, but hopefully this will be the best option yet. Often kept in an overturned bucket propped slightly off the ground, these air pumps can deliver a consistent air supply for your fish no matter how cold or icy they get.
Good luck with your winterization and feel free to stop by our site for more tips and products. I am currently working on rebuilding our site so not everything is up yet, but it will be shortly.
One is to run it all year long. Depending on your climate this is the most desirable, but not always the most practical. If it is too cold in your region to avoid ice issues, and IF you have the correct style of fall or stream, you can often get away with running it as long as you keep the skimmer opening open at all times. This is a bit of a risk for most and you can't leave town without a pond-sitter, but the ice sculptures that form are quite amazing in their own right.
Second is pulling the pump and winterizing your pond. Unless you have a very large feature you will need to keep oxygen available to the fish. This is done most commonly through a tank heater or bubbler. Each has their pros and cons, and many variations of each. The standard tank heater is easiest, but most are relatively costly to run due to their high Wattage needs. Their are lower wattage heaters, look around and see what options there are, we have had issues with longevity with some of the smaller wattage ones so be careful.
Bubblers are the other half of the second option. They are good to keep water moving and the ice open a large amount of the winter. It is not necessary in most cases to keep the ice open at all times, but as often as possible. In zone 4-5 we can use a small danner mag drive pump for 85 - 90% of the winter. Breathers are excellent, but hard to come by, if available they are good options.
The third option is to forget about keeping the ice open and just getting an air pump/stone that will get oxygen to your fish no matter what the surface is like. We've recently gotten one brand in stock to try. I haven't had a chance to test it so I'm not willing to give them any props yet, but hopefully this will be the best option yet. Often kept in an overturned bucket propped slightly off the ground, these air pumps can deliver a consistent air supply for your fish no matter how cold or icy they get.
Good luck with your winterization and feel free to stop by our site for more tips and products. I am currently working on rebuilding our site so not everything is up yet, but it will be shortly.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Thoughts of UVs
UV lights are often a frustrating topic. If the wattage and flow rate is set up correctly they can be the ponder's best friend, if not, they are right up there with the worst of them.
They are often times a much larger up front cost compared to standard treatments, but when you look at the long term repeated treatment versus a one time cost, plus replacement bulbs, they are often times as inexpensive or less than treatment. Basically, if you have the wattage and flow adjusted correctly, you will never have green water again. If you do, the bulb has burnt out or the calibration is off.
With how they function, killing all that circulates through them, they do not work on string algae. You still need a barley or other treatment to combat that. Also, is you use natural treatment for the string algae remember to unplug your uv for 24 hours or you are killing your treatment as well as the algae.
They often have roughly 14 month life spans (the bulbs), but if you only use them before your plants have gotten established, they can often work for 3 to 4 years. But remember, as with any other treatment, they are the band-aid, plants are the cure. If you have proper balance of plants and fish you should need minimal treatment of any kind once the plants are established.
They are often times a much larger up front cost compared to standard treatments, but when you look at the long term repeated treatment versus a one time cost, plus replacement bulbs, they are often times as inexpensive or less than treatment. Basically, if you have the wattage and flow adjusted correctly, you will never have green water again. If you do, the bulb has burnt out or the calibration is off.
With how they function, killing all that circulates through them, they do not work on string algae. You still need a barley or other treatment to combat that. Also, is you use natural treatment for the string algae remember to unplug your uv for 24 hours or you are killing your treatment as well as the algae.
They often have roughly 14 month life spans (the bulbs), but if you only use them before your plants have gotten established, they can often work for 3 to 4 years. But remember, as with any other treatment, they are the band-aid, plants are the cure. If you have proper balance of plants and fish you should need minimal treatment of any kind once the plants are established.
Saturday, June 13, 2009
I need the whole story!
I had a lady come in today and she was a little upset about how the bottle of treatment she bought last month had not worked. I was surprised by this because in multiple years of selling Aqua-One we have had no complaints. Zero.
After a few minutes of discussing other options she casually asks if she has to leave her pond running all the time. YES! In the matter of a few minutes the good bacteria and organisms start to struggle and die. If you turn off your pond, you are losing all of the benefit of your treatment, biological filtration, and natural petina/carpet algae. Couple that with the fact that Aqua-One is a natual treatment that isn't being cirrculated and dying off almost immediately, yeah, that would make a big difference.
If you are having problems with your pond, you have to tell your pond people the whole story! If you leave out 'little' things like that, you are probably being led down the wrong path. Turning off the pond at any time, okay for pondless, not for ponds. How many koi do you have? How often do you feed them? Are there leaves in the bottom of the pond? Are you or any neighbors treating the yard? Are there any recently added plants, fish, or features?
If you think there is any chance a new or minor element could have contributed to your maintenance issues, there is a good chance they have. It may seem trivial, but the little things do matter.
You may get a bored expression from your pond pro, but if they haven't seen the pond with their own eyes, there could be something that is obvious to them, that is not to you. Take the time to go over the exact set up of your pond, it can save you a lot of time and money.
After a few minutes of discussing other options she casually asks if she has to leave her pond running all the time. YES! In the matter of a few minutes the good bacteria and organisms start to struggle and die. If you turn off your pond, you are losing all of the benefit of your treatment, biological filtration, and natural petina/carpet algae. Couple that with the fact that Aqua-One is a natual treatment that isn't being cirrculated and dying off almost immediately, yeah, that would make a big difference.
If you are having problems with your pond, you have to tell your pond people the whole story! If you leave out 'little' things like that, you are probably being led down the wrong path. Turning off the pond at any time, okay for pondless, not for ponds. How many koi do you have? How often do you feed them? Are there leaves in the bottom of the pond? Are you or any neighbors treating the yard? Are there any recently added plants, fish, or features?
If you think there is any chance a new or minor element could have contributed to your maintenance issues, there is a good chance they have. It may seem trivial, but the little things do matter.
You may get a bored expression from your pond pro, but if they haven't seen the pond with their own eyes, there could be something that is obvious to them, that is not to you. Take the time to go over the exact set up of your pond, it can save you a lot of time and money.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Lightning & Skimmers
As you could probably guess these two do not mix well. I quite honestly did not believe the owner when he called and said his skimmer was liquid. There is a two story house and large trees surrounding this pond, how could lightning hit something that is pretty much underground?
Apparently, after talking to multiple firemen, it was concluded that it was lightning and it was probably headed for the house, but 'found' the current from the pump and followed it to the skimmer. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it. And now you can too.
We attempted to find the remnants of the irrigation box that housed the check valve, shown below, but no evidence was found. It was completely incinerated. I don't know if anyone else has ever had this experience, but it was definitely a first for me.
I guess I get to find out how creative I am with rebuilding a pond that has been struck by lightning. Now I've heard of a pump getting burnt out by a power surge from a lightning strike, but never liquified by a direct strike!
Apparently, after talking to multiple firemen, it was concluded that it was lightning and it was probably headed for the house, but 'found' the current from the pump and followed it to the skimmer. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it. And now you can too.
We attempted to find the remnants of the irrigation box that housed the check valve, shown below, but no evidence was found. It was completely incinerated. I don't know if anyone else has ever had this experience, but it was definitely a first for me.
I guess I get to find out how creative I am with rebuilding a pond that has been struck by lightning. Now I've heard of a pump getting burnt out by a power surge from a lightning strike, but never liquified by a direct strike!
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
The DIY good and bad.
I just got done having my butt handed to me on the IVillage forum over my rant on using quilt batting. I need to watch where I rant. Complaining about crazy DIYers on a forum that is almost exclusively DIY is never a good idea. Don't get me wrong, there are many great things that can be done with DIY ingenuity, but in the line of business I am in I only see the negative side of it.
Also I looked closer at the posts and it wasn't the same individual that had the leaves and other issues I'd already responded to. Oops.
I understand the use of an 'ultra fine' media when there is an algae bloom or sediment issues. My feeling is that whenever you have those issues it can be handled in a preventive way, not a fix my current issue way. You can strain your pond as many times as you desire, or you can figure out why you are having the issue and prevent it from happening. That is my humble opinion.
I realize I am basically writing to myself on this blog, but hey, in case I have millions of readers that just choose to not post any responses, I thought I'd explain myself a little.
Also I looked closer at the posts and it wasn't the same individual that had the leaves and other issues I'd already responded to. Oops.
I understand the use of an 'ultra fine' media when there is an algae bloom or sediment issues. My feeling is that whenever you have those issues it can be handled in a preventive way, not a fix my current issue way. You can strain your pond as many times as you desire, or you can figure out why you are having the issue and prevent it from happening. That is my humble opinion.
I realize I am basically writing to myself on this blog, but hey, in case I have millions of readers that just choose to not post any responses, I thought I'd explain myself a little.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Pounding my head against a wall!
I just got done posting on the i Village pond forum and I want to pull my hair out. There is some individual that has cloudy water and can't figure out what to do. Apparently quilt batting is a popular filter media with some ponders.
Really!?!
That just doesn't sound good to me. Why put that stuff in your pond? There have been millions spent on research and development by the industry and no one sells quilt batting for ponds. There is a reason for this.
Top that with the fact that this individual admitted they had large amounts of leaves in their pond and I really want to scream. If you post enough times and leave out important facts, someone will give you a lame idea that might blindly work.
Talk about treating a gaping wound with a band-aid when you need a tourniquet. If the answer is right in front of your face... well that is probably the answer.
Always check the most obvious culprit before you start digging. If your pump isn't working, check it is plugged in, than if the outlet works. Trust me, I've learned that one the hard way a few times.
Live by the KISS method, Keep It Simple, Stupid!
Really!?!
That just doesn't sound good to me. Why put that stuff in your pond? There have been millions spent on research and development by the industry and no one sells quilt batting for ponds. There is a reason for this.
Top that with the fact that this individual admitted they had large amounts of leaves in their pond and I really want to scream. If you post enough times and leave out important facts, someone will give you a lame idea that might blindly work.
Talk about treating a gaping wound with a band-aid when you need a tourniquet. If the answer is right in front of your face... well that is probably the answer.
Always check the most obvious culprit before you start digging. If your pump isn't working, check it is plugged in, than if the outlet works. Trust me, I've learned that one the hard way a few times.
Live by the KISS method, Keep It Simple, Stupid!
Sunday, May 10, 2009
Rehabing Ponds
Many companies are not willing to rehab an existing pond, I on the other hand kind of enjoy it. To be able to take a broken down water feature and make it like new, and usually better, just feels right. I'm working on one that was starting to fall in on itself, a very common problem. As well as an over grown landscape surrounding the pond.
As you can see the edges were falling in as well as some badly laid flagstone. The water fall was virtually destroyed and there was no true filtration system. There was some archaic out of pond box, but it looked like it had not been cleaned for multiple years.
What I have done so far is to pull every piece of flagstone, recut the edges, and relay all the edge and path/patio flagstone. Along with retro-fitting a compact Savio skimmer and installing a new stream and fountain, things are beginning to look much better.
What was a sloping rough flagstone area is now a multi-level tight laid flagstone patio with plants and boulders positioned within the flag. It has gone over so well the job has almost doubled in size since we started. I will have updated photos as soon as I finish up.
There are so many different "don'ts" in this original pond that I'm not sure where to start. Overall it is just a good example of having a specialist put in your waterfeature. There are plenty of landscapers that can install a pond, but wouldn't you rather have an educated pro install it? Just like a lot of plumbers could do your electric, but wouldn't you rather have an electrician do the work in your house.
As you can see the edges were falling in as well as some badly laid flagstone. The water fall was virtually destroyed and there was no true filtration system. There was some archaic out of pond box, but it looked like it had not been cleaned for multiple years.
What I have done so far is to pull every piece of flagstone, recut the edges, and relay all the edge and path/patio flagstone. Along with retro-fitting a compact Savio skimmer and installing a new stream and fountain, things are beginning to look much better.
What was a sloping rough flagstone area is now a multi-level tight laid flagstone patio with plants and boulders positioned within the flag. It has gone over so well the job has almost doubled in size since we started. I will have updated photos as soon as I finish up.
There are so many different "don'ts" in this original pond that I'm not sure where to start. Overall it is just a good example of having a specialist put in your waterfeature. There are plenty of landscapers that can install a pond, but wouldn't you rather have an educated pro install it? Just like a lot of plumbers could do your electric, but wouldn't you rather have an electrician do the work in your house.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Algae Control... Oxymoron?
No, algae control is not an oxymoron like 'military intelligence' or 'deafening silence'. Can it be very elusive... yes! I wish there was a one size fits all answer, but maybe the answer is just that. Each pond has a specific eco system that does not translate across the country or across the lawn from your neighbor's landscape. Plant types, fish amount, natural water pH, and so many other factors make the best blanket answer, just that, there is no one size fits all answer.
Each pond has it's own signature that must be discovered. One treatment may answer your friend's pond, but it won't necessarily answer yours. Don't get frustrated too quickly, there are so many possibilities you can figure something out that works for you.
An Ultra Violet Light is probably the closest thing to a magic bullet when properly fitted, but it does nothing about string algae. Certain algae-cides are great, but they can harm fish especially on warm days, and often times they either feed the next generation of algae or need a second type of treatment to break down the dead algae.
My experience has been that a combination of Aqua-One and barley extract/pellets is the best answer for the most people. A1 is a natural treatment that kills algae and also breaks down the dead algae, and I have found that extract/pellets work better than bales of barley since they don't have to decompose first. Ultra Violet lights are great also, but they must be properly fitted according to flow and wattage, as well as doing nothing for string algae, which you need barley for anyway. Also - if you have a UV, turn it off for 24 hours after treatment with natural treatments or else you are killing your beneficial bacteria.
With all of this being said, plants and a healthy balance are the only true answer. The above mentioned treatments are just that, a treatment or a band-aid. If you want a healthy pond you don't have to continually treat, get plants, plants, and more plants!
Each pond has it's own signature that must be discovered. One treatment may answer your friend's pond, but it won't necessarily answer yours. Don't get frustrated too quickly, there are so many possibilities you can figure something out that works for you.
An Ultra Violet Light is probably the closest thing to a magic bullet when properly fitted, but it does nothing about string algae. Certain algae-cides are great, but they can harm fish especially on warm days, and often times they either feed the next generation of algae or need a second type of treatment to break down the dead algae.
My experience has been that a combination of Aqua-One and barley extract/pellets is the best answer for the most people. A1 is a natural treatment that kills algae and also breaks down the dead algae, and I have found that extract/pellets work better than bales of barley since they don't have to decompose first. Ultra Violet lights are great also, but they must be properly fitted according to flow and wattage, as well as doing nothing for string algae, which you need barley for anyway. Also - if you have a UV, turn it off for 24 hours after treatment with natural treatments or else you are killing your beneficial bacteria.
With all of this being said, plants and a healthy balance are the only true answer. The above mentioned treatments are just that, a treatment or a band-aid. If you want a healthy pond you don't have to continually treat, get plants, plants, and more plants!
Friday, May 1, 2009
Most Common Maintenance Issues
1. Too Many Koi!
I love Koi as much as the next ponder, but they are not to be kept like goldfish. I've stated it before, but it bears repeating. 1 goldfish per 10 gallons, one 1' Koi per hundred gallons, and one 2' Koi per thousand gallons on a standard water garden. Now if you have a true Koi pond we are talking a whole other ball game, otherwise, you're going to have algae and health issues.
2. Over feeding you fish.
You actually don't have to feed your fish at all. Now they become more friendly when you do regularly, but don't go crazy with it. If there is any left over after they are done eating you are now feeding algae, not your fish.
3. Not enough plants.
Plants can be the entire filtration system on their own. Really. If you don't have plants competing for the nutrients and shading out the algae you are going to need treatments. Rule of thumb - Treatments are the band-aid, plants are the cure.
4. Rock bottom ponds.
Now this is not true in all cases, I'm speaking of my experience. There are some of the very best installers in the country that argue this fact to no end. My experience is that unless you love getting in your pond, or have more filtration than the average water garden, you will hate the rock on the bottom of your pond. It all turns green eventually anyway, why pay for pretty rock that you will never see again.
5. Cyclical mistakes.
Often to do with algae. "I had green water, than I drain it, than it turns green again!" Yeah, that is what it does. You didn't solve your algae problem, you just started the cycle over again. - or - "I love clean rocks so I power wash my pond" Same idea as above. If you remove all the beneficial organisms, which most live in the patina / carpet algae, you just restarted your biological system. Also, you get too aggressive with that power washer, you can put a hole in your liner.
6. Salt usage.
"My neighbor uses salt and they don't have the same issue as I do." They may not have the algae issues, but they don't have the same plants as you do. Over 1% and you start to burn floaters, over that and you start to kill most water plants. If you have a 'pond guy' that uses salt make sure its under 1%. Chances are he's listened to a Koi enthusiast and they mentioned salt, which is great for Koi. They often don't have water plants. And ... less salt comes out then you think on water changes, if you don't have a salt test, be very careful even if you are dosing lightly.
7. Un-potted plants.
Water gardens are not Natural!!! Unless you have a natural pond without any type of liner, unpotted plants will become a manintenance nightmare. Lillies and lotus need to be fertilized and divided regularly, it is MUCH easier to do this when they are potted. Cattail and many marginals can be very invasive and damage your opnd in the long run if they jump the pot or don't have one at all.
I love Koi as much as the next ponder, but they are not to be kept like goldfish. I've stated it before, but it bears repeating. 1 goldfish per 10 gallons, one 1' Koi per hundred gallons, and one 2' Koi per thousand gallons on a standard water garden. Now if you have a true Koi pond we are talking a whole other ball game, otherwise, you're going to have algae and health issues.
2. Over feeding you fish.
You actually don't have to feed your fish at all. Now they become more friendly when you do regularly, but don't go crazy with it. If there is any left over after they are done eating you are now feeding algae, not your fish.
3. Not enough plants.
Plants can be the entire filtration system on their own. Really. If you don't have plants competing for the nutrients and shading out the algae you are going to need treatments. Rule of thumb - Treatments are the band-aid, plants are the cure.
4. Rock bottom ponds.
Now this is not true in all cases, I'm speaking of my experience. There are some of the very best installers in the country that argue this fact to no end. My experience is that unless you love getting in your pond, or have more filtration than the average water garden, you will hate the rock on the bottom of your pond. It all turns green eventually anyway, why pay for pretty rock that you will never see again.
5. Cyclical mistakes.
Often to do with algae. "I had green water, than I drain it, than it turns green again!" Yeah, that is what it does. You didn't solve your algae problem, you just started the cycle over again. - or - "I love clean rocks so I power wash my pond" Same idea as above. If you remove all the beneficial organisms, which most live in the patina / carpet algae, you just restarted your biological system. Also, you get too aggressive with that power washer, you can put a hole in your liner.
6. Salt usage.
"My neighbor uses salt and they don't have the same issue as I do." They may not have the algae issues, but they don't have the same plants as you do. Over 1% and you start to burn floaters, over that and you start to kill most water plants. If you have a 'pond guy' that uses salt make sure its under 1%. Chances are he's listened to a Koi enthusiast and they mentioned salt, which is great for Koi. They often don't have water plants. And ... less salt comes out then you think on water changes, if you don't have a salt test, be very careful even if you are dosing lightly.
7. Un-potted plants.
Water gardens are not Natural!!! Unless you have a natural pond without any type of liner, unpotted plants will become a manintenance nightmare. Lillies and lotus need to be fertilized and divided regularly, it is MUCH easier to do this when they are potted. Cattail and many marginals can be very invasive and damage your opnd in the long run if they jump the pot or don't have one at all.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
The Most Important Thing!
Now that we are in the full swing of the early pond season it is important to remember a few things. Plants!
That is only one, but they are so important that it should count as a few. Plants are the backbone of your water garden. If you have enough and the right type you really don't need much else. It will never stop amazing me at the level of maintenance that disappears just by having enough filtration and shade plants. Our courtyard pond gets a single dose of Aqua-One in the spring and then NOTHING else! It is roughly 15 by 8 with a Savio skimmer, endless cascades waterfall box, and a planting pocket.
There are anywhere between 4 to 7 lilies in the pond during the year and a lotus. There are hyacinth in the stream and the cascades is packed full of filtration plants. Also, not to be ignored are many plants in the planting pocket. If you haven't seen one of these, its basically a bog filtration pocket on the side of the pond. There is no water being forced through the pocket, but the underlay sides allows water in and out, but keeps the dirt in the pocket. A great visual buffer zone between land and pond also. You can pack this full of filtration plants and tropicals. They are largely under-valued. This is the only picture I can find of the pocket, but I know I have better ones at the store, I'll update shortly.
I'm not saying that you will never need to treat your pond again with enough water plants. Early in the year they are not established enough to starve out the algae, so early treatment is necessary, or a UV. But when you get the right balance, it minimizes the maintenance like nothing short of an ultra violet light.
That is only one, but they are so important that it should count as a few. Plants are the backbone of your water garden. If you have enough and the right type you really don't need much else. It will never stop amazing me at the level of maintenance that disappears just by having enough filtration and shade plants. Our courtyard pond gets a single dose of Aqua-One in the spring and then NOTHING else! It is roughly 15 by 8 with a Savio skimmer, endless cascades waterfall box, and a planting pocket.
There are anywhere between 4 to 7 lilies in the pond during the year and a lotus. There are hyacinth in the stream and the cascades is packed full of filtration plants. Also, not to be ignored are many plants in the planting pocket. If you haven't seen one of these, its basically a bog filtration pocket on the side of the pond. There is no water being forced through the pocket, but the underlay sides allows water in and out, but keeps the dirt in the pocket. A great visual buffer zone between land and pond also. You can pack this full of filtration plants and tropicals. They are largely under-valued. This is the only picture I can find of the pocket, but I know I have better ones at the store, I'll update shortly.
I'm not saying that you will never need to treat your pond again with enough water plants. Early in the year they are not established enough to starve out the algae, so early treatment is necessary, or a UV. But when you get the right balance, it minimizes the maintenance like nothing short of an ultra violet light.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Only a year + between posts!
Wow, haven't been paying much attention to this blog in quite some time! I'll try and get better at this, but it is getting late in the season so we'll aim for next year being more steady.
It is getting late in the year and we have a lot of people asking about when and how to shut down their ponds for the winter. In my region (Z4) we widely recommend tearing down the pond for the winter. Certain types of ponds can run all year, but you have to keep a close eye on them and you must have a certain type of fall or stream.
When to tear down varies on the weather and if you have wadders or not. Until the water freezes hard there isn't too much reason to tear down earlier than that, but if you have to get into your pond you probably want to do it early unless you have wadders to keep yourself insulated from the cold water.
The hows of plant winterizing varies according to their hardiness. Hardy lilies and lotus can just be cut back and dropped to the bottom of your pond. Make sure the lotus are fully brown before cutting them back or you can lose them. Hardy marginals vary by plant and are best handled by asking specific questions about their individual hardiness. Tropical lilies can be overwintered by putting their tubers in moist sand and keeping them in a cool area, but many treat them as annuals and just buy new each year.
Fish don't need any special treatment if you have a decent amount of volume and about two feet of depth. Keep a hole in the ice with a bubbler, deicer, or stock tank heater so the gasses can exchange. Do not feed them after the water temp drops below 50 degrees or they can die from the food rotting in their system. If the ice freezes solid for a few days melt the ice, breaking with a hammer can do damage since they are in a state of near hibernation.
I will have more info on our website - Pondibilities - link to the side. Any more questions or specific plant questions can be sent their or here. Thank you.
It is getting late in the year and we have a lot of people asking about when and how to shut down their ponds for the winter. In my region (Z4) we widely recommend tearing down the pond for the winter. Certain types of ponds can run all year, but you have to keep a close eye on them and you must have a certain type of fall or stream.
When to tear down varies on the weather and if you have wadders or not. Until the water freezes hard there isn't too much reason to tear down earlier than that, but if you have to get into your pond you probably want to do it early unless you have wadders to keep yourself insulated from the cold water.
The hows of plant winterizing varies according to their hardiness. Hardy lilies and lotus can just be cut back and dropped to the bottom of your pond. Make sure the lotus are fully brown before cutting them back or you can lose them. Hardy marginals vary by plant and are best handled by asking specific questions about their individual hardiness. Tropical lilies can be overwintered by putting their tubers in moist sand and keeping them in a cool area, but many treat them as annuals and just buy new each year.
Fish don't need any special treatment if you have a decent amount of volume and about two feet of depth. Keep a hole in the ice with a bubbler, deicer, or stock tank heater so the gasses can exchange. Do not feed them after the water temp drops below 50 degrees or they can die from the food rotting in their system. If the ice freezes solid for a few days melt the ice, breaking with a hammer can do damage since they are in a state of near hibernation.
I will have more info on our website - Pondibilities - link to the side. Any more questions or specific plant questions can be sent their or here. Thank you.
Saturday, July 28, 2007
forum
I've gotten involved with the ivillage water garden forum and have really been intrigued. There are so many people with so many suggestions it really reminds me that each and every pond is a different ecosystem. Lotus are easy to grow vs. They are nearly impossible, UV wattage recommendations, rock or no rock, bottom drains, predators, etc........
There is so much information out there it is staggering and a little bit daunting to the newbie, my suggestion is to make sure you know what you want. Kinda the same theme as my last post, but it is so important. Do you want a koi pond, a reflecting pool, a water garden, a farm pond, or something else. It will effect what rock you use, the filtration, pumps, fish, treatment, you name it and different settings require different tools.
Does anyone out there have a forum or blog you really enjoy? Let me know if you do I'd love to have some more links and sources of information. Happy ponding.
Heres the ivillage link. http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/
There is so much information out there it is staggering and a little bit daunting to the newbie, my suggestion is to make sure you know what you want. Kinda the same theme as my last post, but it is so important. Do you want a koi pond, a reflecting pool, a water garden, a farm pond, or something else. It will effect what rock you use, the filtration, pumps, fish, treatment, you name it and different settings require different tools.
Does anyone out there have a forum or blog you really enjoy? Let me know if you do I'd love to have some more links and sources of information. Happy ponding.
Heres the ivillage link. http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/
Friday, July 20, 2007
Koi Ponds
I have recently had the pleasure of exploring the world of koi ponds. Its a mechanical wonderland with so many possibilities and options. I was in Kansas City this past week and had the pleasure to see a professional's personal koi pond...wow! Absolutely beautiful. Check out their link (Hix & Son) on the right margin when you get a chance. They also directed me to an excellent site, sacramentokoi.com, that had soooo much information and tons of how to info.
This whole trip was started by an experience I want to talk about. I was recently contacted to consult/build a koi pond, I guess I should say re-build a koi pond. Now I do not claim to be any sort of koi expert, but I do know there is a lot of difference between a koi pond and a water garden. If you want a koi pond, make sure you are very clear about your intentions to your contractor. You can say 'I want a koi pond' and they could still build you a two foot deep pond with shelves and bio filtration alone. This isn't a koi pond, its a water garden with fish. While koi and water gardens can get along to some extent, our own experiences have gone well, there are significant issues with this combination. See sacaramentokoi.com, 20 questions link, for all the reasons. I am by no means saying to not do a water garden with fish, I think they are a necessity, but you must understand goldfish and koi have different effects, and will greatly change your biological setup.
A 'true' koi pond should have no shelves, with steep sides and be at least 4 feet deep. Water plants cause problems; koi rooting through them, carrying diseases, harder to catch a koi you must treat, salt and water plants don't mix, etc... Bottom drains are basically a necessity, and very helpful in watergardens of large size. And the filtration! Koi ponds make water gardens look amazingly simple. There is way too much information to include in one post, but check out the links I've mentioned if you are interested in a koi pond.
To try and wrap up this lengthy post, make sure you know what you want, what you're getting into, and that you communicate your desires clearly to the builder. Otherwise you could very well end up with a cookie-cutter water garden that won't be able to sustain the amount or size of koi you desire. Make sure you get what you want and its done right.
This whole trip was started by an experience I want to talk about. I was recently contacted to consult/build a koi pond, I guess I should say re-build a koi pond. Now I do not claim to be any sort of koi expert, but I do know there is a lot of difference between a koi pond and a water garden. If you want a koi pond, make sure you are very clear about your intentions to your contractor. You can say 'I want a koi pond' and they could still build you a two foot deep pond with shelves and bio filtration alone. This isn't a koi pond, its a water garden with fish. While koi and water gardens can get along to some extent, our own experiences have gone well, there are significant issues with this combination. See sacaramentokoi.com, 20 questions link, for all the reasons. I am by no means saying to not do a water garden with fish, I think they are a necessity, but you must understand goldfish and koi have different effects, and will greatly change your biological setup.
A 'true' koi pond should have no shelves, with steep sides and be at least 4 feet deep. Water plants cause problems; koi rooting through them, carrying diseases, harder to catch a koi you must treat, salt and water plants don't mix, etc... Bottom drains are basically a necessity, and very helpful in watergardens of large size. And the filtration! Koi ponds make water gardens look amazingly simple. There is way too much information to include in one post, but check out the links I've mentioned if you are interested in a koi pond.
To try and wrap up this lengthy post, make sure you know what you want, what you're getting into, and that you communicate your desires clearly to the builder. Otherwise you could very well end up with a cookie-cutter water garden that won't be able to sustain the amount or size of koi you desire. Make sure you get what you want and its done right.
Saturday, May 26, 2007
Fertilizing
Fertilizing your lilies and lotus is not necessarily a must, but if you want the most out of your plants it really is. Lilies, and especially lotus, are heavy feeders and really need to be fertilized every three weeks or so. We put our lotus and lilies in large containers and put three tabs in the lilies and four in the lotus every three weeks. I mentioned the pot size because roughly one tab per gallon of container is what we go by, you can burn your lilies by over fertilizing. We most often use Highland Rim products because they have simply performed the best, pondtabs are a good option also if you can't find highland rim.
First tip, make sure to 're-seal' the hole you make when you push those into the plant. If you don't you're fertilizing the whole pond, including the algae. We aren't very high on the liquid fertilizer for the same reason. Secondly, don't fertilize the lotus until you have aerial leaves. Finally, depending on climate, stop fertilizing in late August so the plants can harden up a little before they go dormant. If you aren't in the mid west make sure to talk to a local specialist to find out what is best for your region.
First tip, make sure to 're-seal' the hole you make when you push those into the plant. If you don't you're fertilizing the whole pond, including the algae. We aren't very high on the liquid fertilizer for the same reason. Secondly, don't fertilize the lotus until you have aerial leaves. Finally, depending on climate, stop fertilizing in late August so the plants can harden up a little before they go dormant. If you aren't in the mid west make sure to talk to a local specialist to find out what is best for your region.
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