No, algae control is not an oxymoron like 'military intelligence' or 'deafening silence'. Can it be very elusive... yes! I wish there was a one size fits all answer, but maybe the answer is just that. Each pond has a specific eco system that does not translate across the country or across the lawn from your neighbor's landscape. Plant types, fish amount, natural water pH, and so many other factors make the best blanket answer, just that, there is no one size fits all answer.
Each pond has it's own signature that must be discovered. One treatment may answer your friend's pond, but it won't necessarily answer yours. Don't get frustrated too quickly, there are so many possibilities you can figure something out that works for you.
An Ultra Violet Light is probably the closest thing to a magic bullet when properly fitted, but it does nothing about string algae. Certain algae-cides are great, but they can harm fish especially on warm days, and often times they either feed the next generation of algae or need a second type of treatment to break down the dead algae.
My experience has been that a combination of Aqua-One and barley extract/pellets is the best answer for the most people. A1 is a natural treatment that kills algae and also breaks down the dead algae, and I have found that extract/pellets work better than bales of barley since they don't have to decompose first. Ultra Violet lights are great also, but they must be properly fitted according to flow and wattage, as well as doing nothing for string algae, which you need barley for anyway. Also - if you have a UV, turn it off for 24 hours after treatment with natural treatments or else you are killing your beneficial bacteria.
With all of this being said, plants and a healthy balance are the only true answer. The above mentioned treatments are just that, a treatment or a band-aid. If you want a healthy pond you don't have to continually treat, get plants, plants, and more plants!
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Friday, May 1, 2009
Most Common Maintenance Issues
1. Too Many Koi!
I love Koi as much as the next ponder, but they are not to be kept like goldfish. I've stated it before, but it bears repeating. 1 goldfish per 10 gallons, one 1' Koi per hundred gallons, and one 2' Koi per thousand gallons on a standard water garden. Now if you have a true Koi pond we are talking a whole other ball game, otherwise, you're going to have algae and health issues.
2. Over feeding you fish.
You actually don't have to feed your fish at all. Now they become more friendly when you do regularly, but don't go crazy with it. If there is any left over after they are done eating you are now feeding algae, not your fish.
3. Not enough plants.
Plants can be the entire filtration system on their own. Really. If you don't have plants competing for the nutrients and shading out the algae you are going to need treatments. Rule of thumb - Treatments are the band-aid, plants are the cure.
4. Rock bottom ponds.
Now this is not true in all cases, I'm speaking of my experience. There are some of the very best installers in the country that argue this fact to no end. My experience is that unless you love getting in your pond, or have more filtration than the average water garden, you will hate the rock on the bottom of your pond. It all turns green eventually anyway, why pay for pretty rock that you will never see again.
5. Cyclical mistakes.
Often to do with algae. "I had green water, than I drain it, than it turns green again!" Yeah, that is what it does. You didn't solve your algae problem, you just started the cycle over again. - or - "I love clean rocks so I power wash my pond" Same idea as above. If you remove all the beneficial organisms, which most live in the patina / carpet algae, you just restarted your biological system. Also, you get too aggressive with that power washer, you can put a hole in your liner.
6. Salt usage.
"My neighbor uses salt and they don't have the same issue as I do." They may not have the algae issues, but they don't have the same plants as you do. Over 1% and you start to burn floaters, over that and you start to kill most water plants. If you have a 'pond guy' that uses salt make sure its under 1%. Chances are he's listened to a Koi enthusiast and they mentioned salt, which is great for Koi. They often don't have water plants. And ... less salt comes out then you think on water changes, if you don't have a salt test, be very careful even if you are dosing lightly.
7. Un-potted plants.
Water gardens are not Natural!!! Unless you have a natural pond without any type of liner, unpotted plants will become a manintenance nightmare. Lillies and lotus need to be fertilized and divided regularly, it is MUCH easier to do this when they are potted. Cattail and many marginals can be very invasive and damage your opnd in the long run if they jump the pot or don't have one at all.
I love Koi as much as the next ponder, but they are not to be kept like goldfish. I've stated it before, but it bears repeating. 1 goldfish per 10 gallons, one 1' Koi per hundred gallons, and one 2' Koi per thousand gallons on a standard water garden. Now if you have a true Koi pond we are talking a whole other ball game, otherwise, you're going to have algae and health issues.
2. Over feeding you fish.
You actually don't have to feed your fish at all. Now they become more friendly when you do regularly, but don't go crazy with it. If there is any left over after they are done eating you are now feeding algae, not your fish.
3. Not enough plants.
Plants can be the entire filtration system on their own. Really. If you don't have plants competing for the nutrients and shading out the algae you are going to need treatments. Rule of thumb - Treatments are the band-aid, plants are the cure.
4. Rock bottom ponds.
Now this is not true in all cases, I'm speaking of my experience. There are some of the very best installers in the country that argue this fact to no end. My experience is that unless you love getting in your pond, or have more filtration than the average water garden, you will hate the rock on the bottom of your pond. It all turns green eventually anyway, why pay for pretty rock that you will never see again.
5. Cyclical mistakes.
Often to do with algae. "I had green water, than I drain it, than it turns green again!" Yeah, that is what it does. You didn't solve your algae problem, you just started the cycle over again. - or - "I love clean rocks so I power wash my pond" Same idea as above. If you remove all the beneficial organisms, which most live in the patina / carpet algae, you just restarted your biological system. Also, you get too aggressive with that power washer, you can put a hole in your liner.
6. Salt usage.
"My neighbor uses salt and they don't have the same issue as I do." They may not have the algae issues, but they don't have the same plants as you do. Over 1% and you start to burn floaters, over that and you start to kill most water plants. If you have a 'pond guy' that uses salt make sure its under 1%. Chances are he's listened to a Koi enthusiast and they mentioned salt, which is great for Koi. They often don't have water plants. And ... less salt comes out then you think on water changes, if you don't have a salt test, be very careful even if you are dosing lightly.
7. Un-potted plants.
Water gardens are not Natural!!! Unless you have a natural pond without any type of liner, unpotted plants will become a manintenance nightmare. Lillies and lotus need to be fertilized and divided regularly, it is MUCH easier to do this when they are potted. Cattail and many marginals can be very invasive and damage your opnd in the long run if they jump the pot or don't have one at all.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
The Most Important Thing!
Now that we are in the full swing of the early pond season it is important to remember a few things. Plants!
That is only one, but they are so important that it should count as a few. Plants are the backbone of your water garden. If you have enough and the right type you really don't need much else. It will never stop amazing me at the level of maintenance that disappears just by having enough filtration and shade plants. Our courtyard pond gets a single dose of Aqua-One in the spring and then NOTHING else! It is roughly 15 by 8 with a Savio skimmer, endless cascades waterfall box, and a planting pocket.
There are anywhere between 4 to 7 lilies in the pond during the year and a lotus. There are hyacinth in the stream and the cascades is packed full of filtration plants. Also, not to be ignored are many plants in the planting pocket. If you haven't seen one of these, its basically a bog filtration pocket on the side of the pond. There is no water being forced through the pocket, but the underlay sides allows water in and out, but keeps the dirt in the pocket. A great visual buffer zone between land and pond also. You can pack this full of filtration plants and tropicals. They are largely under-valued. This is the only picture I can find of the pocket, but I know I have better ones at the store, I'll update shortly.
I'm not saying that you will never need to treat your pond again with enough water plants. Early in the year they are not established enough to starve out the algae, so early treatment is necessary, or a UV. But when you get the right balance, it minimizes the maintenance like nothing short of an ultra violet light.
That is only one, but they are so important that it should count as a few. Plants are the backbone of your water garden. If you have enough and the right type you really don't need much else. It will never stop amazing me at the level of maintenance that disappears just by having enough filtration and shade plants. Our courtyard pond gets a single dose of Aqua-One in the spring and then NOTHING else! It is roughly 15 by 8 with a Savio skimmer, endless cascades waterfall box, and a planting pocket.
There are anywhere between 4 to 7 lilies in the pond during the year and a lotus. There are hyacinth in the stream and the cascades is packed full of filtration plants. Also, not to be ignored are many plants in the planting pocket. If you haven't seen one of these, its basically a bog filtration pocket on the side of the pond. There is no water being forced through the pocket, but the underlay sides allows water in and out, but keeps the dirt in the pocket. A great visual buffer zone between land and pond also. You can pack this full of filtration plants and tropicals. They are largely under-valued. This is the only picture I can find of the pocket, but I know I have better ones at the store, I'll update shortly.
I'm not saying that you will never need to treat your pond again with enough water plants. Early in the year they are not established enough to starve out the algae, so early treatment is necessary, or a UV. But when you get the right balance, it minimizes the maintenance like nothing short of an ultra violet light.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Only a year + between posts!
Wow, haven't been paying much attention to this blog in quite some time! I'll try and get better at this, but it is getting late in the season so we'll aim for next year being more steady.
It is getting late in the year and we have a lot of people asking about when and how to shut down their ponds for the winter. In my region (Z4) we widely recommend tearing down the pond for the winter. Certain types of ponds can run all year, but you have to keep a close eye on them and you must have a certain type of fall or stream.
When to tear down varies on the weather and if you have wadders or not. Until the water freezes hard there isn't too much reason to tear down earlier than that, but if you have to get into your pond you probably want to do it early unless you have wadders to keep yourself insulated from the cold water.
The hows of plant winterizing varies according to their hardiness. Hardy lilies and lotus can just be cut back and dropped to the bottom of your pond. Make sure the lotus are fully brown before cutting them back or you can lose them. Hardy marginals vary by plant and are best handled by asking specific questions about their individual hardiness. Tropical lilies can be overwintered by putting their tubers in moist sand and keeping them in a cool area, but many treat them as annuals and just buy new each year.
Fish don't need any special treatment if you have a decent amount of volume and about two feet of depth. Keep a hole in the ice with a bubbler, deicer, or stock tank heater so the gasses can exchange. Do not feed them after the water temp drops below 50 degrees or they can die from the food rotting in their system. If the ice freezes solid for a few days melt the ice, breaking with a hammer can do damage since they are in a state of near hibernation.
I will have more info on our website - Pondibilities - link to the side. Any more questions or specific plant questions can be sent their or here. Thank you.
It is getting late in the year and we have a lot of people asking about when and how to shut down their ponds for the winter. In my region (Z4) we widely recommend tearing down the pond for the winter. Certain types of ponds can run all year, but you have to keep a close eye on them and you must have a certain type of fall or stream.
When to tear down varies on the weather and if you have wadders or not. Until the water freezes hard there isn't too much reason to tear down earlier than that, but if you have to get into your pond you probably want to do it early unless you have wadders to keep yourself insulated from the cold water.
The hows of plant winterizing varies according to their hardiness. Hardy lilies and lotus can just be cut back and dropped to the bottom of your pond. Make sure the lotus are fully brown before cutting them back or you can lose them. Hardy marginals vary by plant and are best handled by asking specific questions about their individual hardiness. Tropical lilies can be overwintered by putting their tubers in moist sand and keeping them in a cool area, but many treat them as annuals and just buy new each year.
Fish don't need any special treatment if you have a decent amount of volume and about two feet of depth. Keep a hole in the ice with a bubbler, deicer, or stock tank heater so the gasses can exchange. Do not feed them after the water temp drops below 50 degrees or they can die from the food rotting in their system. If the ice freezes solid for a few days melt the ice, breaking with a hammer can do damage since they are in a state of near hibernation.
I will have more info on our website - Pondibilities - link to the side. Any more questions or specific plant questions can be sent their or here. Thank you.
Saturday, July 28, 2007
forum
I've gotten involved with the ivillage water garden forum and have really been intrigued. There are so many people with so many suggestions it really reminds me that each and every pond is a different ecosystem. Lotus are easy to grow vs. They are nearly impossible, UV wattage recommendations, rock or no rock, bottom drains, predators, etc........
There is so much information out there it is staggering and a little bit daunting to the newbie, my suggestion is to make sure you know what you want. Kinda the same theme as my last post, but it is so important. Do you want a koi pond, a reflecting pool, a water garden, a farm pond, or something else. It will effect what rock you use, the filtration, pumps, fish, treatment, you name it and different settings require different tools.
Does anyone out there have a forum or blog you really enjoy? Let me know if you do I'd love to have some more links and sources of information. Happy ponding.
Heres the ivillage link. http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/
There is so much information out there it is staggering and a little bit daunting to the newbie, my suggestion is to make sure you know what you want. Kinda the same theme as my last post, but it is so important. Do you want a koi pond, a reflecting pool, a water garden, a farm pond, or something else. It will effect what rock you use, the filtration, pumps, fish, treatment, you name it and different settings require different tools.
Does anyone out there have a forum or blog you really enjoy? Let me know if you do I'd love to have some more links and sources of information. Happy ponding.
Heres the ivillage link. http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/
Friday, July 20, 2007
Koi Ponds
I have recently had the pleasure of exploring the world of koi ponds. Its a mechanical wonderland with so many possibilities and options. I was in Kansas City this past week and had the pleasure to see a professional's personal koi pond...wow! Absolutely beautiful. Check out their link (Hix & Son) on the right margin when you get a chance. They also directed me to an excellent site, sacramentokoi.com, that had soooo much information and tons of how to info.
This whole trip was started by an experience I want to talk about. I was recently contacted to consult/build a koi pond, I guess I should say re-build a koi pond. Now I do not claim to be any sort of koi expert, but I do know there is a lot of difference between a koi pond and a water garden. If you want a koi pond, make sure you are very clear about your intentions to your contractor. You can say 'I want a koi pond' and they could still build you a two foot deep pond with shelves and bio filtration alone. This isn't a koi pond, its a water garden with fish. While koi and water gardens can get along to some extent, our own experiences have gone well, there are significant issues with this combination. See sacaramentokoi.com, 20 questions link, for all the reasons. I am by no means saying to not do a water garden with fish, I think they are a necessity, but you must understand goldfish and koi have different effects, and will greatly change your biological setup.
A 'true' koi pond should have no shelves, with steep sides and be at least 4 feet deep. Water plants cause problems; koi rooting through them, carrying diseases, harder to catch a koi you must treat, salt and water plants don't mix, etc... Bottom drains are basically a necessity, and very helpful in watergardens of large size. And the filtration! Koi ponds make water gardens look amazingly simple. There is way too much information to include in one post, but check out the links I've mentioned if you are interested in a koi pond.
To try and wrap up this lengthy post, make sure you know what you want, what you're getting into, and that you communicate your desires clearly to the builder. Otherwise you could very well end up with a cookie-cutter water garden that won't be able to sustain the amount or size of koi you desire. Make sure you get what you want and its done right.
This whole trip was started by an experience I want to talk about. I was recently contacted to consult/build a koi pond, I guess I should say re-build a koi pond. Now I do not claim to be any sort of koi expert, but I do know there is a lot of difference between a koi pond and a water garden. If you want a koi pond, make sure you are very clear about your intentions to your contractor. You can say 'I want a koi pond' and they could still build you a two foot deep pond with shelves and bio filtration alone. This isn't a koi pond, its a water garden with fish. While koi and water gardens can get along to some extent, our own experiences have gone well, there are significant issues with this combination. See sacaramentokoi.com, 20 questions link, for all the reasons. I am by no means saying to not do a water garden with fish, I think they are a necessity, but you must understand goldfish and koi have different effects, and will greatly change your biological setup.
A 'true' koi pond should have no shelves, with steep sides and be at least 4 feet deep. Water plants cause problems; koi rooting through them, carrying diseases, harder to catch a koi you must treat, salt and water plants don't mix, etc... Bottom drains are basically a necessity, and very helpful in watergardens of large size. And the filtration! Koi ponds make water gardens look amazingly simple. There is way too much information to include in one post, but check out the links I've mentioned if you are interested in a koi pond.
To try and wrap up this lengthy post, make sure you know what you want, what you're getting into, and that you communicate your desires clearly to the builder. Otherwise you could very well end up with a cookie-cutter water garden that won't be able to sustain the amount or size of koi you desire. Make sure you get what you want and its done right.
Saturday, May 26, 2007
Fertilizing
Fertilizing your lilies and lotus is not necessarily a must, but if you want the most out of your plants it really is. Lilies, and especially lotus, are heavy feeders and really need to be fertilized every three weeks or so. We put our lotus and lilies in large containers and put three tabs in the lilies and four in the lotus every three weeks. I mentioned the pot size because roughly one tab per gallon of container is what we go by, you can burn your lilies by over fertilizing. We most often use Highland Rim products because they have simply performed the best, pondtabs are a good option also if you can't find highland rim.
First tip, make sure to 're-seal' the hole you make when you push those into the plant. If you don't you're fertilizing the whole pond, including the algae. We aren't very high on the liquid fertilizer for the same reason. Secondly, don't fertilize the lotus until you have aerial leaves. Finally, depending on climate, stop fertilizing in late August so the plants can harden up a little before they go dormant. If you aren't in the mid west make sure to talk to a local specialist to find out what is best for your region.
First tip, make sure to 're-seal' the hole you make when you push those into the plant. If you don't you're fertilizing the whole pond, including the algae. We aren't very high on the liquid fertilizer for the same reason. Secondly, don't fertilize the lotus until you have aerial leaves. Finally, depending on climate, stop fertilizing in late August so the plants can harden up a little before they go dormant. If you aren't in the mid west make sure to talk to a local specialist to find out what is best for your region.
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