Don't Dig Too Soon!

Just a quick post after a tough day of breaking bad news to a nice lady. Don't Dig Too Soon! I know it can be tempting to jump right into building your pond, but trust me you don't want to get ahead of yourself. A great lady called me and had me drive to her house so I could help her finish her pond. To my great dismay she had alrady dug a HUGE pond, with help from her husband's excavator, and than let it sit over the winter. This wouldn't have been as big of an issue if she hadn't already bought her liner. After the winter weather and the flooding conditions the hole washed out and became too big for her liner. Now she is faced with the options of buying a new piece of liner, re-building the sides (trust me its not fun), or filling the whole thing in and starting over. Either way its a lot more money and/or labor. So all you DIYers, do yourself a HUGE favor and make sure you don't dig too soon. Just a helpful hint.

Common Problems

After spending a full day rebuilding a bio-fall, the same amount of time I could have built half a pond, I am reminded how important it is to select the proper builder. Whether you are building your pond yourself or hiring someone it is imperative to get as much information as you can. Is this their speiality? If its the third 'specialty' listed on their business card, it really isn't. Take a look at some of their past ponds. Are they concerned about longevity or maintenance? Many, even some I thought were good companies, don't appear to be concerned about the future.

Now each job a contractor does they learn something, I wish when I built my first pond I knew what I know now. But there are some very important things that I have seen ignored in many ponds. For example, streams need to be deep with solid sides because if you walk around your stream it will compact and the rock will slide if it isn't concreted or foamed. This is a major issue, I've fixed multiple ponds this year that the side rock was falling in and the water level was off due to people walking around, admittedly one was mine. Learn from my, and many other's, mistakes and make sure to solidify the rock on sides of streams and ponds. If you think you or your contractor is building your stream too shallow, chances it is way too shallow. If it looks like the rock could slide, it will.

* One point I would like to make is I am in an area that large angular rock is hard to come by, most is river rock or glacier rock that is relatively smooth and rounded. When this type of rock is used securing with foam or concrete is important. If you can get your hands on more angular or easily stacked rock this isn't nearly as important.

Salt & Your Pond

It has came to my attention that some pond maintenance people are being rather liberal in their use of salt. Now before I go into a rant, every situation is different and each pond has different needs, but chances are you don't want to use salt in your pond. If you have a 'Koi Pond' or 'Reflecting Pool' than go a head, but if you have a water garden you don't want salt! Let me be more specific, if you have ANY plants in your pond do not use salt. These companies have listened to their 'koi guy' and assumed that one situation fits all. Koi like a little salt in their water, it is a great treatment for their health and to protect their slime coat. Most basic parasites can be taken care of with a salt dip. But if you have any plants, over 1% salt can begin to damage floating plants and much more will damage or kill most pond plants.

Here's another circumstance that you need to keep in mind. If you have your pond set at 1% salt and do a water change, you still have nearly 1% salt. If your water evaporates, the salt does not. Make sure to check your salt level before adding more, because chances are you mainly have the percent before the water change or loss. If you have any plants and you have maintenance done with salt they are probably going to put too much in. If you have salt before the change, and they add more you probably have way too much.

Once again, if you have a koi pond or other non-plant pond, go ahead with in reason. Even without plants you don't want over 3-4% unless you have spoken with a koi specialist. We have treated sick fish with 7%, but they get really slow and they can die with prolonged exposure or any greater percent. Now I do not claim to be an expert with koi, so make sure to talk to an expert before doing anything with salt treatments. But make sure to remember that if you do much over 1% salt, you're going to really damage some plants. Just something to ponder.

Spring Plant Care

Re-potting and overall care of your water plants is very important to pond health and ease of maintenance. If you don't at least take a look at your lilies, marginals, and/or lotus you will kick yourself down the road.

Not dividing your lilies drastically changes their appearance and health. Lilies can very quickly jump their pot and grow into the other strata of your pond. Trust me, as someone who does maintenance, you don't want to mess with this. Especially if you rocked the bottom of your pond. Not dividing will also change the appearance of your lilies. As they crowd the pot, and each other, the leaves will stand out of the water and the plant will not bloom nearly as often or as well.


Lotus are a less common water plant, but are so stunning they should be in every water garden. There are multiple sizes of this plant, so even with a small pond, you can find a complimentary lotus. Propagation of lotus can be difficult due to very delicate growth tips. You must find the 'knuckles' behind the tubers and cut behind that narrowing point, than replant and cover the tuber. It doesn't sound that difficult, but care must be taken.


Marginals are usually much easier to re-pot than the other water plants, but many of them are aggressive and just as important to care for. Unless you are going to keep a yearly eye on certain marginals, I would suggest not even putting them in your pond. Make sure to check how aggressive or invasive certain plants are if they are planted directly into your pond or if you will not be cutting them back at least once a year. There are so many different plants that can be called marginal I won't go into specifics, but most can simply be divided and re-potted. The one point I will focus on is if these marginals are exceptionally good filter plants, consider potting them in a mesh pot with pea gravel alone. If a great filter plant, such as pickerel or thalia, is planted directly into pea gravel the roots have even more contact with water and filter that much better. As I said before, make sure the plants you use are not too aggressive if you aren't going to tend to them during the year.

Make sure to talk to a local specialist or contact us for more in depth information about plant maintenance. Also consider fertilization, especially with lotus and lilies, due the their heavy feeding habits. Good luck with your spring ponding.

Maintenance

After a long day of pond cleaning, I thought I would make a few comments while its still fresh in my mind.

First, unless you really, really want to, don't put rock in the bottom of your pond. It really is a maintenance nightmare. Some say that this rock will act as your biological filter, unless you have a lot of gph moving through your pond it won't. Everything that dies or floats to the bottom of your pond will turn to unhealthy anaerobic material. Than you have to take all that rock out to really clean your pond. Secondly, all that pretty rock you just paid for, is covered in algae and looks the same as the liner you covered.

Second, keep ALL plants in a pot. Just like the liner, that pot will be covered in algae and blend in soon enough. I just spent two hours pulling iris and cat tails out of sulfur smelling muck. If it had been potted, it would have taken ten minutes. Lilies and marginals can jump pots, but a knife and repotting can take care of that in a few minutes per plant.

Third, don't put out you hyacinth and other tropicals yet. I'm in the midwest with a week of freezing nights in the forcast, even though it was almost 80 today. Don't be fooled by the warm weather early, you'll have to buy your plants twice. And as far as tropical lilies, make sure the water is conistently around 70 degrees, it won't do much of anything until the water temperature raises.

Of course all of these suggestions are regionally based, and there are different points of view, especially with rocked ponds. Each region and individual pond has its own ecosystems, ask around and see what works best for ponders around you. I do quite a few maintenance jobs a season, so I have first hand experience with these things, and I would gladly clean three un-rocked and only pottend ponds than one rocked pond with unpotted plants. Something to think about.

Spring Clean Up?

Looking outside its hard to believe that there were 5 to 7 foot drifts of snow last week. From blizzard to 6o something in a week, thats midwest weather for you. As far as water gardens are considered, these warm streaks make you want to get in and do some work. While most people do a thorough cleaning in the Spring, think about a light cleaning in the spring and a big cleaning in the fall. Why?
This time of year your fish are coming off of a long period of not eating and near hibernation. They could be sick or simply more susceptible to disease in this weakened state. Now, if you have no fish or bring them in during the winter, you have no issues.
When ever you do a cleaning there is going to be some anaerobic bacteria and other nasty stuff that gets stirred up. This gunk has amonia and other harmful stuff for fish. Now this is always in the pond, but when it gets stirred up, combined with weak fish, there can be damage done to gills and even kill your fish.
If you do want to do a thorough cleaning this spring there are a few things you can do to limit the stress on your fish. Take your fish out before you start to clean, like I said before, when you stir that gunk up there can be bad side-effects. Fill your fish container (at least partially) with old pond water. This will limit the likelihood of shocking the fish due to temprature or water quality changes. And following that line of thought, make sure to acclimate them to the new water just as you would when you buy a new fish. It may be their home pond, but its completely new water.

Link List Added

I just added a link list that includes the best of the best in the nation. If these guys can't help you, you're probably beyond help. Hopefully I've covered a pretty good geographic area and at least on of them is close to you. If not, check the member list on the NAPP page. Well, I've got to get back to shoveling the four feet drifts in my front yard. Talk to you soon.